For a while I was pretty much obsessed with bananas. One of my proudest moments was when I was accused by the Fresh Produce Buyer at Asda (I was working at their HQ at the time) of "revolutionary activity", after I put a notice on the ASDA intranet about a World Development Movement campaign about poor conditions at Chiquita banana plantations. "Remember what pays your wages" was the buyer's stern warning.
Some things have changed with time - that conversation was 12 years ago. In another email exchange with a buyer I was told in no uncertain terms that "The Asda Shopper will never buy Organic."
Yet some other things don't change. There was a good piece in the Guardian on Monday by Felicity Lawrence (thanks to Cliff Southcombe for pointing me to it) about the current banana supermarket price war. It happens fairly often, particularly as bananas tend to be supermarkets' biggest selling line (as the produce buyer pointed out to me all those years ago) - and because they are a Known Value Item - people tend to be aware of how much bananas cost - in a way that they're not so aware of the price of dried borlotti beans.
I lived in Guayaquil for a year, the port through which most of Ecuador's banana exports pass. Whenever I travelled to the capital, Quito, I would bump along a pot-holed road through miles and miles of banana plantations, stretching way into the distance. It was an awe-inspiring sight.
These bananas were dollar bananas - grown on plantations where conditions are regularly denounced as poor - low wages, lack of union recognition, regular use of pesticides etc etc. It's this kind of industrial agriculture which allows supermarkets like ASDA/Wal-Mart to negotiate really low prices.
Of course ASDA will claim that this is in the interests of the ASDA Shopper. In my years at Asda House the cult of the ASDA Shopper was something to behold. There was no shrine in the atrium, but there might as well have been. Of course any business should be focused on serving its customers, but I don't accept the supermarkets' regular assertions that they are just giving hard-pressed consumers what they want. This one-dimensional argument is naive, ignores the social responsibilities of business, and is designed to deflect attention from a private company's primary purpose - to maximise profit for shareholders.
ASDA have responded to Felicity Lawrence's article - with this letter from Alex Brown, their Produce Director. I'm intrigued by this line:
"The reason we're able to offer the lowest prices is simple: because we cut unnecessary cost out of our business and pass it on. That's not because we're squeezing suppliers or trading unethically, it's just because we don't waste money."
One of the core values when I worked at ASDA - I assume it's still the same - was "We hate waste of any kind." It's a good value - and that's why I can believe that they work incredibly hard to cut costs out of their business. But am I supposed to swallow the line that they don't squeeze suppliers?
I'd like to know whether Alex Brown has visited any of the plantations which supply ASDA, or whether he's considered the impact that a banana price war can have on other producers in this market. If he can't afford the time to go to Ecuador, he could, as Felicity Lawrence suggests, just take a look at the UK's diminishing dairy industry - and perhaps look a few dairy farmers in the eye and tell them that he's only doing what the ASDA Shopper wants.
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